Mana Pools - Kanga Bush Camp
MANA POOLS
The Blue forest.
I was first introduced to Mana Pools through a friend. As we worked together, he would tell me all about the magic of the Blue Forest, the slice of paradise he describes as “Africa 50 years ago”, holding the essence of being out in the wild African bush. But what and where is it?
Mana Pools is a UNESCO World Heritage Site situated in Zimbabwe’s far north on the southern banks of the Zambezi River. You can stay in one of several luxury camps or self camp. Mana meaning “four” in Shona, represents the four large permanent waterholes created by the meandings of the Zambezi River. With a range covering 219,000 ha, this beautiful wilderness boasts over 450 resident and migratory bird species. You can also find large mammals including elephant, hippopotamus, buffalo, zebra, giraffe and predators such as lions, leopard, crocodile, hyena, cheetahs and the critically endangered Painted Wolf. Antelopes, civets, honey badgers and monkeys are also present.
After hearing all about the magic this place holds, I changed my original travel plans to include Mana Pools. The two camps I stayed at, were choosen for their high likely hood of getting up close and personal with Africa’s painted wolves and elephants.
The first camp I stayed at was Kanga Bush Camp. Known for it’s armchair safaris, the camp is situated in a most remote part of Mana Pools, in a private concession surrounded by untouched wilderness. It boasts 6 tents adjacent to the Kanga Pan, a bustling waterhole surrounded by the thick mopane forest. The camp is solar powered, with each tent containing floor to ceiling length fly mesh windows, fans, en-suite bathroom complete with flushing toilet and an outdoor shower, hot running water and a secluded veranda overlook the Pan. The camp is seasonal, only open from April to the end of November as the rains in the wet season make access impossible. Some of the activities on offer are the famous armchair safaris, game drives and walking safaris.
Kanga Pan is the sole source of fresh water for miles and during the dry season there is a constant flow of wildlife visiting the pan to seek respite in the scorching African heat. Some of the regular visitors include elephants, zebra, baboons, buffalo, impala, kudu and a variety of birdlife. You can sit on the secluded veranda out the front of your tent, or lounge on the main deck in the shade of a mahogany tree or set up in the hide below the deck with elephants just meters away. You might even receive a visit while using the en-suite shower like I did, when an unexpected visitor flopped their trunk over the wall and started sucking up the water cascading out of the tap. At other times, you might just get mud flung at you while they bathe themselves to protect their skin from the searing sun and parasites.
Meals are served on the main deck, on a communal table beneath the mahogany’s branches. It’s a great time to mingle with other guests, the host, guides and staff, and something I quite enjoy while on safari. During dinner the calls of the wild echo through the darkness and dinner is constantly interrupted as guides shine a spotlight out across the Pan to show us what lurks out in the shadows. Wildlife like leopards, lions and civets can be spotted drinking from the Pan after dark. Walking around at night is forbidden unless accompanied by a guide who will be armed for yours and their safety. You are in the wild, surrounded by wild creatures and there are no fences, so it is important to follow all safety advise given at any of the camps you stay with. On my second night, just after I was escorted back to my tent, a spotlight lit up a leopard just meters in front of my tent entrance. Without the beam from that spotlight I would not have known that leopard was so close, it was thrilling to be in it’s presence and I sat watching as it moved about. They are stealthy predators and efficient hunters. Sleep comes easy while listening to the chorus of the bush and I plan to take a sound recorder on my next travels.
One of the many highlights Mana Pools has to offer are the walking safaris. To start you are driven to a location and your guide will give a safety briefing should anything happen. It is very important to pay attention and listen to what they say and it is wise to remember you are out, walking in the open with wild animals around. Accidents can happen but if you listen to your guide and follow instructions you are unlikely to run into any trouble. Accompanied by a guide, you walk in single file, whispering to keep the noise to a minimum. Walking is one, I feel, of the best ways to experience a destination. It allows one to be completely submerged in their surroundings and engage in what is happening around you. The dried floodplains, the songs of birds, that creeper crawling up the tree, the snap of a twig in the bushes, the alarm call from a baboon, it heightens your senses. You really become immersed in what you are doing and all your senses come alive while you try to take it all in. Following the guides instructions we come to a standstill and look through the bushes just to our left. At first I don’t see anything. Then after a few moments, the flick of a tail, the flap of an ear and a rumbling that reaches into my soul, exposes the elephant just meters from where we were standing. To be that close to something that big is humbling, in the best sense. Who would have thought that an animal so large could be so quiet? Further on and we are instructed to climb an anthill, quickly, as a cow (female elephant) mocked charged, as a warning to stay away from her calf. It was over quickly and the elephants continued on their way but it certainly gets the heart pumping.
Everyday there is the option to partake in an early morning and afternoon game drives. On these drives we travel through this magical paradise, spotting wildlife and listening to their calls. Sometimes the guide will stop the vehicle, signalling for everyone to keep quiet while he checks from spoor (tracks) or listens to a call he has heard then he might change direction. Guides from other companies swap sightings information in passing, allowing their guests the best possible experience. Tsetse fly is common in this area and during one drive, a large blue board was visible through the trees. The guide explained that blue attracts these feisty flies, they land and become stuck. Just as he was explaining this while handing around a sort of insect repellent I was bittern on the hand and believe me when I say it packs a punch! So it’s best to avoid wearing blue and bright colours when on safari. Stick to creams, khakis, browns, neutrals and tans. It helps to blend you in to the surrounding environment. Every afternoon drive ends with sun downers while watching the sun dip below the horizon. My drink of choice is nice refreshing gin and tonic to wash away the dust and marvel at all the beauty from the day.
A big part of any safari and camp in Africa are the guides and staff. They ensure your safety, share their knowledge and have a love for the bush around them. I love when a guide gets just as excited as I do for a wildlife sighting, it shows how passionate they are for their job and the natural world. You are always made to feel welcome and they are happy to answer any questions about your stay and the things you encounter. As we left camp to head off to the next one, we were sent off with a song, dance and warm hugs. Friendly staff and passionate guides can and will make all the difference to your safari.
On the last morning, there is one last drive before being driven to the drop off point for the next camp. Here I will be collected by a representative from the next camp I will be staying at. On the way the guide stopped the vehicle to inspect fresh painted wolf tracks. He said they passed through here just half an hour ago in the direction of the camp we had just left. Unfortunately we couldn’t turn around but there was always hope I would see them later at the next camp. Overall Kanga Bush Camp was such a wonderful and unique experience. So much so that I do plan to return one day in the not so distant future.
To book your own stay click here!
